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The Secret to Great Enlargements

It seems like every day we get a call from a customer who asks, “will file 1234.JPG look good as a 16×20 inch print?”

The simple answer is this: it depends. While some files are clearly too small to enlarge, others are in the “gray area” and might look good depending on the style you are trying achieve, and where the print will be displayed.

Here are the tricks we use inside the lab to help you answer this question. You can use them yourself, and in many cases make the decision before you place your order.

View the image at 100%

How good does the image look at 100% size? To find out, open it in Photoshop and set your Zoom Tool to 100%, or choose “Actual Pixels” from the View menu. If it looks sharp, that’s good. If the image has fuzzy “artifacts” around objects, or if it’s “soft” (blurry), you need to decide if this is acceptable or not. Any imperfections you see will only get worse if the image is enlarged.

Here’s a trick we use: pay special attention to any diagonal lines or straight edges in the image. If they have a “stair-step” look, you’re almost guaranteed that the image will not be acceptable as an enlargement.

Check the pixel dimensions

The optimal pixel dimensions for a print are 300 pixels per inch. In Photoshop, on the Image menu, choose “Image Size.” DON’T CHANGE ANY VALUES. Just read the pixel dimensions of the file. If your image is 1500 x 2100 pixels, it will look best printed in a 5×7 size. A perfect 16×20 print will come from an image that is 4800 x 6000 pixels (4800/300=16, 6000/300=20).

This doesn’t mean that you cannot print an 8×10 from a 1500×2100 pixel image – it simply means that an 8×10 will be slightly softer, so subtle of a difference that you probably would not notice. But if you want a 16×20, you will absolutely notice a difference.

Here’s a rule of thumb: once you get to 3 times larger than the optimal print size, you are at the limit of what could be considered an acceptable print. For example, a 1500×2100 image would be perfect as a 5×7, good as an 8×10, but will be very soft as a 16×20. Again, this is only a rule of thumb: for certain images, under certain circumstances, you might find this acceptable. Only you, the photographer, can make that call.

NEVER use Photoshop to resize an image larger just so you can get a larger print. This actually REDUCES image quality.

Additional Considerations

If you are making a wall portrait, a lower resolution (i.e. softer print) is more acceptable because it’s farther away from the viewer. This is where your knowledge of the subject and how they plan to use the print should be considered. For example, wall graphics for trade shows look acceptable at 150 pixels per inch.

Even your finishing choices make a difference. A matte finish will add a small amount of softness to the image. While this is acceptable for most wall portraits, if the image is already soft you may not be happy with it.

If you absolutely need that certain shot, would it look good as a black and white? To our eyes, a softer black and white image is more acceptable than the same color print. Another alternative is to use the image as part of a montage. This is easy if you use multi-image templates in ROES or LabPrints.

Conclusion

An image has to be really bad for us to guarantee that it will make an unacceptable print. Obviously if it’s that bad, you wouldn’t send it to us in the first place. It’s the images in the “gray area” that require expert judgment. However, ultimately the best judge as to whether an image will make a good print will always be you, the photographer.

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3 Responses to “The Secret to Great Enlargements”

  1. Rick Says:

    Some labs have software, used as part of the printing process, that allows a very good wall portrait to be printed with as few as 110 dpi. And Adobe Camera RAW allows RAW files to be boosted with great results. So shoot raw to give yourself many more options including better exposure corrections and better color corrections. Wedding photographers who shoot on the fly in all kinds of light will probably benefit most from RAW capture.

  2. Paul T. D'Aigle Says:

    This article has all good points and should be considered when ordering prints. A couple of suggestions that I have learned over the years:

    Since my camera produces an image of approximately 9×13 inches at 300ppi, I have no problem using PS to enlarge it to 11×14 @ 300ppi for printing. However, my 16×20 and larger crops do not set a resolution (ppi). Therefore, my 16×20 cropped image may have it’s ppi set at 175-180 after cropping. Any good lab like JD Color has software much better suited to raise an image to printing resolution than PS has. A lab’s software is designed specifically for setting proper printing resolution (and can cost thousands of dollars) whereas Photoshop sells for $700 and it’s enlarging engine is only a small portion of the complete program. I’ll go with the lab’s software.

    If you absolutely HAVE TO enlarge in PS, use the 10% rule where the enlargement is done in steps of 10% at a time until the correct ppi is acheived. Otherwise, trust JD Color to do it better.

  3. Mark Says:

    Rick – JD uses the best software available to improve your prints.

    You are correct – some images will look fine as a wall portrait at 110dpi, depending on subject matter, viewing distance, style, etc. Software does help, but it cannot fix every image under every circumstance. That is why your judgment as the photographer is required.

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